Our columnist discovers a beer that completely screws with his perception of what a beer is.
THE impenetrably black liquid swirled around the goblet seductively, tempting me with its velvety smoothness. A whiff of rich dark chocolate and hints of sweet soy sauce rose from within the glass as I raised it to take a sip.
With that simple sip, layer upon layer of flavour started to hit my taste buds, from rich, dark chocolate to bitter stout, all enveloped by a syrupy sweetness of a port wine. After letting it sit for a while to warm up, another dimension of flavours emerged � warm, rich and slightly biscuit-y, with a dreamy, silky sweet finish.
Is the Black Tokyo* Horizon really a beer? At 17.2% alcohol base volume (ABV), it seemed closer to wine than beer; and as I was drinking it, my mind kept telling me that it was a beer, but my taste buds refused to acknowledge that it was a beer. What sorcery was this?
Scottish craft brewers BrewDogs have developed a strong following worldwide thanks to their rebellious punk rock philosophy and catchy beer names.
Selling for an incredible RM107++ per 330ml bottle at the newly opened craft beer bar Taps Beer Bar in Kuala Lumpur, one does not simply guzzle and gulp the Black Tokyo* Horizon. In fact, the beer is so rich and full-bodied that you couldn�t gulp it even if you wanted to. Like a port wine, the syrupy sweetness also means that it is hard to take more than a sip each time. Thankfully, the beer can be drunk warm as well, so you can just take your time and savour it slowly.
The Black Tokyo* Horizon is a special collaboration between three independent European breweries � BrewDog (Scotland), N�gne � (Norway) and Mikkeller (Denmark), and is a fusion of the respective breweries� big stouts, namely the Mikkeller Black, the BrewDog Tokyo*, and the N�gne � Dark Horizon. The beer is a small-run, limited-edition brew; and at the time of writing, there are only 10 bottles of the beer left at Taps.
It�s hard to believe that the Black Tokyo* Horizon is actually a beer. Then again, it is made by BrewDog, the Scottish punk rock brewers who have been actively pushing the boundaries of what �beer� actually is. Craft beers have always been about innovative ideas, rich flavours, and the constant pushing of boundaries; and BrewDog is one of the major movers of this particular trend in beer.
According to their official website (brewdog.com), BrewDog came about because founders James Watt and Martin Dickie were bored with all the industrially �brewed lagers and stuffy ales� that dominate the British beer market (as is the case with most craft brewers). So they decided that the best way to solve this problem was to brew their own beers.
Is that really a beer? The Black Tokyo* Horizon will challenge your perception of what actually is a beer.
During his keynote address at last year�s Asian Brewers Conference (part of Beerfest Asia) in Singapore, Watt said that the turning point came when they got an opportunity to meet Michael Jackson � not the late King of Pop, but the late writer who was considered Britain�s foremost expert on whisky and beer.
�We met him down in London and brought him some beers to try. We couldn�t believe it, �Michael Jackson is trying the beers we made at home!�,� said Watt. �He drank the beer, he shook his head, put the glass down and told us, �Boys, quit your jobs now, and start making beer!�
�We were both 24 at the time, and I was the captain of a fishing boat. I quit that, went to the bank, and got a loan to buy some brewing equipment,� he recalled. �We were so excited to be making our own beer, and our goal is to make other people as excited and passionate about good beer as we are. We wanted to show people there was an alternative to the mainstream beers that dominated the market in Britain.�
Watt and Martin founded BrewDog in April 2007, and it has since grown into Scotland�s largest independent brewery, producing about 120,000 bottles per month and boasting a hardcore following all over the world. This is mostly thanks to a combination of its rebellious punk rock philosophy (they proudly proclaim their beers to be �beer for punks� and �clever humans�), catchy beer names, crazy marketing gimmicks, and of course, their unique and craftily innovative beers.
As befitting their punk rock attitude, the brewery is not afraid to court controversy in their quest to push the boundaries of beer. They�ve brewed several beers that lay claim to being the strongest beers in the world, including Tactical Nuclear Penguin (32% ABV), Sink The Bismarck! (41% ABV); and the current record holder, The End Of The World (55% ABV), of which only 12 bottles were brewed, and bizarrely bottled in the bodies of small animals. Conversely in 2010, BrewDog produced Nanny State, a weak, 1.1%ABV in response to a controversy in Britain about their 18% ABV Tokyo* stout, just to show that there are just no limits to what a beer can be.
BrewDog beers are currently only available at Taps Beer Bar, which prides itself on having the most number of craft beers in Malaysia (it also carries an impressive range of craft beers from around the world, including those from Australia, Europe and America). Taps currently carries six different BrewDog beers, not including the aforementioned Black Tokyo* Horizon.
Trashy Blonde (4.1% ABV)
This is an easy drinking pale ale that has a nice fruity hoppy aroma, and a balance of flavours with just a hint of bitterness and subtle sweetness. Compared to the other BrewDog brews on the list, this is probably the least distinctive beer on the list.
There Is No Santa (4.7% ABV)
Christmas may be over, but you can relive the joy of the holiday through this limited-edition seasonal stout brewed with cocoa nibs and ginger stems. With a very distinct cinnamon nose and a Christmas-y gingerbread-like flavour, this is a great unique beer that we imagine goes pretty well with apple pie.
77 Lager (4.9% ABV)
Made with 100% malt and whole leaf hops, this is definitely a HUGE step up from commercial lagers, despite being quite light in texture and slightly sweet to boot. A good choice if you�re looking for something to drink all night.
5am Saint (5% ABV)
A great medium-bodied red ale with a fruity, floral aroma and a malty, slightly toast-like flavour. Of all the beers I tried from the BrewDog range, this was the closest one to a traditional British ale, in my humble opinion.
Alice Porter (6.2%ABV)
This rich brew is a union of one 300-year-old recipe and two cross-continental hop varieties. It is one of the best porters I�ve tried so far. It has a sweet, bubblegum-y nose that leads into a nice and smooth mouthfeel, with a subtle brown sugar-ish flavour.
Hardcore IPA (9.2%)
Don�t let the name fool you, this is a pretty easy drinking IPA (which stands for India Pale Ale) despite supposedly containing more hops and bitterness that any other beer brewed in Britain. It�s deceptively light and smooth for a 9.2% ABV beer, and is a wonderfully complex brew, with layer after layer of flavours dancing around your mouth, and a pleasant, sweet hoppy finish. Definitely one of my favourite BrewDog beers.
Taps Beer Bar is located at One Residency, 1 Jalan Nagasari, Off Jalan Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur. For inquiries, call 03-2110 1560 or visit www.tapsbeerbar.my. The outlet is closed today for Chinese New Year eve, but operations will resume tomorrow.